Square Peg, Round Hole

Simplicity is sometimes more difficult to achieve than the ornate. I've ripped out dozens of complex designs that I'm super excited about in the sketching, math and chart drawing phase, yet when I cast on and begin knitting, I find myself dreading the next row. If I don't enjoy it and it's so complicated that it makes my brain hurt, I know that whomever is knitting it when the pattern is available will certainly not either. Back to the drawing board.

We see this in life constantly - yards overrun with lawn ornaments, clothes in stores (although I salute the tacky Christmas sweater phenomenon), poodles with out-of-control haircuts, the toothpaste aisle at Target (why so many choices?!!), or getting behind the guy at the coffee shop that orders a drink that takes longer to explain than the State of the Union. It can be hard to edit oneself.

I've had a blue hank of one of my favorite yarns on my desk for months. I've been waiting for it to tell me what it wants to be and while at first I thought, "lace, no - cables," it's one of those hanks that is so beautiful by itself that it finally hit me - keep it simple, stupid. With that in mind, I'd like to introduce the Square Peg, Round Hole Hat. Designed to be a fun, simple, quick knit, this has become my new favorite hat.

With a generous brim of twisted ribbing, the effortless textured square design is an easy combination of knits and purls in the round, finishing off with slouchy crown decreasing on US 5 and 7 needles. The stunning Shalimar Yarns Enzo Worsted ( I will never get tired of knitting with this cashmere/superwash merino/nylon yarn) has such a wonderful subtle sheen and drape to it that feels lovely on the head. This hat has gone everywhere with me and I plan on keeping it that way.

The phrase "square peg, round hole" is an idiomatic expression which describes the unusual individualist who could not fit into a niche of his or her society. Everyone feels that way at one time or another and the textured squares on this hat are placed in a way that there's an illusion of a circle between them.

I'll work on those complex designs again someday soon, but in the meantime, I'm having fun keeping it simple.

Download the Square Peg, Round Hole Hat here.

Gotham Cowl KAL

We had a great bunch of knitters in the String Ravelry Group who participated in the Fair Isle Nordic Slouch Hat KAL! Learning in a group (and there's something really fun about a virtual group who meets up from all different locations) is a fantastic way to make new global knitting friends, meet up when it's convenient to your schedule and be able to go back and read everything as many times as it takes for the lightbulb to go on. I'd like to introduce the Gotham Cowl, my next project for String Yarns and our next String Yarns Ravelry Group KAL. Inspired by my years of living in and around New York City, this cowl may look like it's cabled, but in fact it's all lace!

I'll never forget sitting on the edge of my bed on my last night in Boston before leaving for Brooklyn. I had just graduated from RISD, my childhood room was filled with boxes ready to put on the moving truck in the morning, I was nervous, scared and unsure if this was the right path for me. I had a picture of the person I would be next time I sat on that bed. New York was close enough to catch a train or bus home and I wondered if I would have mastered the subway by my next visit back, would I have made any friends, would I hate it and want to come back, would I meet any other knitters, would I survive on my own? Looking back, I'm sure everyone who leaves home has these exact same thoughts and feelings. I was terrified.

I spent a lot of time walking in New York once I got there - I think that was my favorite thing about that city. Every turn around the corner could be a different world, a different neighborhood, a different experience. One day a friend and I walked Manhattan tip to tip (about 13 miles), starting at the north end of the island at 6am and finally reaching Battery Park late that evening. My feet were tired, my throat was dry, if I had to wait at another red light I may have screamed, but my goodness, did we have an adventure! I look back on that day and want to take the person I was then, sit her next to the scared person on the bed I was the night before I left home, and let her know everything was going to be okay. I wanted her to know that New York would become part of who she is, that it's ok to be scared, knitting would help me through and to embrace it.

I lived in New York for 7 years, but never once thought of myself as a New Yorker. I met my husband there, I had a lot of amazingly creative freelance jobs, I worked in film, television, at Vogue Knitting, Martha Stewart, made lifelong friends, learned about new cultures and learned how to widen my view of the world and everyone in it. Living there made me who I am today and I look back at my time there fondly, but always knew it was temporary. When I dream of New York, I find myself walking the streets, feeling the city vibrating below my feet, smelling the city smell and hearing the city noise. I picture the skyscrapers towering far above my head and feel like a rat in a maze trying to get where I need to be - that's what I picture when I see New York in my head - tall buildings stretching to the sky and me looking up from far below, clouds and sky blocked by steel and glass.

Inspired by the elegant and unparalleled skyline that is New York City, I'd like to invite you to join String Yarns and I in our next KAL, starting Tuesday, March 8th in the Ravelry Group. The Gotham Cowl is an ode to the city grid, with lines converging and fanning out like the streets seen from above. The architectural structure of the vertical columns is softened by the contrast of the feminine lace, bringing to mind New York City itself. I remember thinking, "If I can make it here, I can make it anywhere" and while the city can be tough, New Yorkers are some of the nicest people you'll ever meet.

Commencing with a provisional (or temporary) cast on, we'll learn how and why to do that, to read a lace chart that's knit back and forth, master basic lace knitting, read our knitting, find our place in a chart if we get lost, execute kitchener stitch and block lace to reach its full potential when finished. This is the kind of cowl I wore daily in springtime in New York - there's still a nip in the air but you don't need a big, bulky scarf to keep your neck warm. Designed to be worn long and open or doubled up and wrapped snug against your neck, this is a stunning cashmere cowl that you'll find yourself wearing every day. Knitting up on US 7's in String's luxurious String Classica, a worsted 100% cashmere, this cowl requires 3 balls and an appreciation for elegance.

Join us by becoming part of our Ravelry Group here. We start March 8th and I'll check in weekly with step-by-step photo tutorials, tips, tricks, advice and clear instructions on how to knit lace with ease. String Yarns is offering a 15% off discount with the code MarKAL16 when you purchase the kit directly from them here. Chose from over 25 colors of their yummy cashmere and join me!

And that girl, scared to death sitting on the edge of her bed? She turned out just fine.

X-Ray Embroidery

Embroidery is something I so admire. While I have infinite patience regarding knitting, embroidery is something I don't excel at, nor do I have have the patience for. X-rays have always fascinated me as well... Our bodies are made up of so many things we cannot see, working in harmony to keep us alive. Having had the occasional glimpse inside my body - whether it be an x-ray, a sonogram or a really deep cut, it's pretty wild to see what's happening beneath the skin. Our bodies do some pretty amazing things.

Check out the below work by Matthew Cox, an artist who combines x-rays and magnificent embroidery. Original article found here.

Playfully Embroidered X-Ray Film by Matthew Cox

by Kate Sierzputowski 

Adding a touch of softness to stark images of knees, skulls, and chests, Matthew Cox uses bright thread to embroider on X-ray film. His additions add a playful fiction to the cold reality of the transparent film, giving body parts the faces of Greek gods and limbs of anger-prone superheroes. Each stitch on the medical photograph acts as a line for Cox, a labored drawing produced from vibrant thread.

The Philadelphia-based artist enjoys the contrast of his two chosen materials, redefining each of their roles through their unique combination. “By joining the cold, blue, medically-technical plastic of the X-ray with the colorful, decorative and tactile embroidery thread, each is removed from its original intention and creates a new entity,” said Cox. “Handling these media also gives me an opportunity to comment on the ever-increasing presence of photography in contemporary art by introducing labor over the quick, slickness of film.”

Cox’s will show a selection of his embroidered works this summer at Sweden’s Fiberspace. You can see more of his works on his Instagram here.

Lars Rains, Modern Lopi & A Giveaway!

UPDATE: 2.5.16: Congratulations to winner Heather! Heather, check your email. ----------

Lars Rains is known for his amazing Fair Isle work. In his new book, Modern Lopi: One: New Approaches to an Icelandic Classic, he creates patterns tailored to today’s lifestyle, celebrating bold, creative palettes. Lars draws inspiration from twentieth-century music, Icelandic mythology, mathematical concepts and drunken bar crawls to craft an innovative collection that explores new and exciting possibilities for this traditional yarn.

Lars was kind enough to sit does with me and answer some questions about his new book.

Tanis Gray (TG): I love that you took a classic technique and design and made it modern! How did you come up with your idea for the book?

Lars Rains (LR): I’ve been knitting with Icelandic wool for over twenty years. Every year, I would eagerly anticipate the new book of Lopi patterns from Ístex, the company that produces the yarn. The sweaters in those books generally had traditional designs with a limited range of color schemes. I thought that it would be fun to combine different silhouettes with unusual color choices in order to introduce my own aesthetic to the world and to explore the many different ways this yarn could be used.

TG: Like you, I was thrown into a fair isle sweater pretty soon after learning how to knit! I was just a kid and didn’t know stranded color work sweaters “should be scary.” I was always thankful that I was chucked into the deep end right away. Do you feel the same way?

LR: I think every knitter has some type of project that he or she may find daunting. I know that I never attempted socks for over ten years because I was afraid of those tiny needles after learning how to knit with bulky yarn. In fact, I had never worked an ssk before that! I also had an irrational fear of lace, but now I love designing openwork shawls and garments. This is why I firmly believe that everyone should learn a new technique or skill with each new project. It’s only scary the first time you do it.

TG: Agreed! You’ve organized your book according to weight. Some people think Icelandic wool only comes in one weight. Was this to educate people on the possibilities?

LR: Absolutely! Lopi is available in North America in four different weights and each of them has its own benefits and drawbacks. Bulky Lopi is actually a super bulky yarn and it is perfect for quick accessories, so I came up with a scarf pattern and a shawl design with it for my book. Álafosslopi is the yarn that most people are familiar with here and it is the traditional yarn used for Icelandic sweaters or lopapeysur. Léttlopi is the worsted alternative and it has quickly become my new favorite for when I want to design a garment with a lot of drape and loft in it. Finally, there is Einband, which is the laceweight version. I can see myself using it a lot more in the future, as it comes in an extensive color palette and it works up to a DK weight when held double. It lends itself well to detailed color work, like in my Monsina sweater.

TG: Have you been to Iceland? What about this particular style of knitting inspires you?

LR: I had the chance to go to Iceland in the summer of 2012 and I can’t wait to go back. The capital, Reykjavík, has such a vibrant art scene and everybody wears Icelandic sweaters. You can even buy Lopi yarn at the grocery store! I also spent a couple of days in Ísafjörður, which is in the northwest of the country. It’s a small town built on a little spit of land in the middle of a fjord, bracketed on either side by towering mountain ridges. It is the capital of the Westfjords region and it is, quite simply, the most beautiful place I have ever visited. I would love to retire there some day. Icelanders have a deep affinity for nature and the colors of the landscapes continue to inspire my designs. I also enjoy taking the traditional constructions found in this style of knitting, such as the seamless yoke sweater, and using it as the foundation for more adventurous approaches to design. I like to push the boundaries of what is possible with this yarn and to try new things that other people haven’t thought of yet.

TG: Tell us about your color choosing process.

LR: I like to organize my collections around a unifying principle, like a particular color or technique. In this book, I was obsessed with the Fuchsia Heather and Dark Magenta colors that Ístex produces. There are so many bright colors to choose from with this yarn, but they weren’t often well represented in the more traditional designs. It’s a challenge for me to try to combine vivid colors which really shouldn’t work together, but somehow I manage to find a way to make it work. Recently, I’ve become enchanted with gradient yarns and I’m looking forward to developing some ombré effects for my next Modern Lopi book. I also enjoy limiting myself to monochromatic palettes at times; otherwise, I can get overwhelmed by all of the possibilities.

TG: What is your favorite garment in the book and why (mine is Hildur)?

LR: That’s like having to decide who your favorite child is! I like them all for different reasons. Hildur is the perfect blend of the traditional and the modern, with its updated color scheme and gentle waist shaping. However, it’s not my favorite sweater, as it took me about twelve hours to grade it for six different sizes! Rúntur has the best conceptual back story, as you supposedly start knitting it when you are sober and finish it when you are completely drunk. But I think that I would have to go with my cover sweater, Asymptote. It isn’t that hard to stack horizontal bands on top of one another and call it a yoke design. For me, the best Icelandic sweaters have what I like to think of as vertical movement in their yokes and I achieved that for the first time in this sweater. It was very fulfilling for me professionally to have come up with something that could proudly stand alongside sweater designs by Jared Flood, Kate Davies, Ysolda Teague, and Védís Jónsdóttir, the principal designer at Ístex.

TG: I look at fair isle charts the way people look at fashion magazines – they’re so beautiful! Is drawing the charts your favorite part or do you start with the silhouette then do the charts? Tell us about your design process.

LR: I’m glad that I’m not the only designer who likes to go straight to the charts! The written instructions tell me so much about new construction methods, but they often make me fall asleep when I read them. I’m definitely distracted by shiny things and charts are my favorite things to analyze. My design notebooks are absolutely filled with them and I always start my sweater designs with them first. I’ll then make a swatch or two to see how I’ll need to switch up the color arrangements for better contrast and internal coherence. After that, I usually just dive right into my knitting, making adjustments to the silhouette as I go. Designing is a very organic process for me and I often end up at a different destination than the one that I had intended. At the same time, though, I like to have a good idea of what the basic shape of the garment will be and a solid grasp of all of the techniques that I will need in order to achieve my vision before I ever cast on.

TG: Do you prefer designing accessories or garments and why?

LR: I definitely prefer designing sweaters as I love to have such a large canvas to work with. There is so much more room to play with color and to explore unusual techniques. Sweaters also allow me to expand my toolbox of construction techniques and stitch patterns. Even though I have been knitting for so long and have started designing my own patterns, there is always something new for me to learn, especially when it comes to more feminine silhouettes. I don’t have a lot of experience around women’s clothes! Sweater design is the perfect opportunity for me to develop my skills. I look at accessories as studies for future projects, kind of like how painters approach their larger pieces. They are much more accessible to a larger group of knitters, as not everyone wants to invest the time and money needed for a sweater. Designing accessories has also taught me a lot over the past couple of years about how to edit my larger designs so that I don’t try and say too much as a designer in a single project.

TG: You are a man with many interests and a retired NYPD police office! Tell us how you got into knitwear design and what you enjoy doing when you’re not knitting.

LR: I had a knitting blog back in the early days entitled Does a Bear Knit in the Woods? and I used to hang out with people like Franklin Habit and Carol Sulcoski before they became knitting superstars. I used to design complicated sweaters only for myself, but when I saw their careers take off, I thought about trying to get commercial patterns published as well. Unfortunately, I had no idea how to get started. It took me several years to acquire the confidence I needed to send out submissions to magazines and to discover my voice as a designer. I wanted to take the time to figure out how I wanted to present myself in terms of branding and to think about what types of designs I wanted to send out into the world. Jared Flood has been a huge influence on me in this regard. Most of my spare time is spent learning all I can about expanding my design business and trying to get my backlog of completed projects published. It sometimes feels like I am always working, but I do make sure to relax most nights in front of the television with my husband and our two dogs.

TG: I teach a LOT of Fair Isle classes and people freak out over steeking. Any advice for those looking to try their first steek?

LR: Like I said before, any new technique is going to be scary the first time you try it. Now, it’s totally possible to produce a Fair Isle cardigan by working it flat, knitting and purling back and forth. You never have to learn how to steek if you don’t want to, but steeking just speeds up the whole process. It is always good to have a variety of knitting skills that you can call upon whenever you may need them. However, like with any skill, you need to practice. You were going to knit a gauge swatch anyway to make sure that you ended up with the proper size, right? Just add a couple of purl stitches in the middle of your color work pattern and use this swatch as your testing strip to practice your steeking. I know how unnerving it can be to take a pair of scissors to a garment that you spent weeks working on. Swatches work up much quicker and if you somehow make a mistake, you can just start over with a lot less anguish. Once you have steeked a couple of swatches perfectly, you’ll wonder why you were ever nervous about it in the first place.

TG: You’ve published a lot of great designs. Do you prefer working on books or individual patterns?

LR: Thanks so much! I do like submitting individual patterns for publication, but I don’t think that I’ll ever get used to the tight deadlines. The nice thing about getting projects published in book collections or in such magazines as Vogue Knitting and Knitty is that it forces you to come up with an idea, have it crystallize in your head as a fully formed design, and then get it produced very quickly. There is no time for procrastination or self-doubt to enter into the picture. When you’re self-publishing your own patterns, there is a tendency to let time get away from you. That being said, I loved working on this book and learning all about the publishing process. Taking all the time I needed to accomplish my goals allowed me to visualize the entire collection as a cohesive whole and to come up with a particular look for the book that reflected what I was trying to say with my knitting patterns. I was fortunate to work with a great team of artists on this book, from Gale Zucker and her incredible photos to Elizabeth Green and her amazing layout skills. This book turned out exactly as I envisioned it and I couldn’t be prouder of it.

TG: What’s up next for you in your knitting endeavors?

LR: I have been completely overwhelmed by the response to the book and the work that is involved with promoting it! I can’t complain, though, because I am learning so much about marketing along the way. I will be doing a trunk show and book signing at Knitty City in New York City on Saturday, February 6th from 3 to 6 p.m. I will then be headed to Stitches West in California for another book signing and trunk show with Handknitting.com. I have a couple of patterns coming out in future publications and I just received the galleries from the photo shoot for my next book this week. It’s not all work, though. I have a designer retreat in Vermont over the last weekend of February, a men’s retreat in Canada sometime in April, and another men’s retreat in upstate New York in May, so I will get to relax at some point, doing what I love most: knitting.

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Thanks, Lars!

Lars has been generous enough to offer up a free PDF of his new book! Answer the below trivia question correctly and automatically be entered in to win.

What is the name of the Icelandic singer who sings La Dolce Vita and what is so fabulous about the Icelandic sweater he is wearing in the video for the song?

Leave your answer in the comments section - a winner will be chosen at random on Friday, February 5. Contest open to readers worldwide.